The mecca called Camp Nou from a fan’s corner

More often than not we seldom don’t write about things which are dearest to us, something that is so close to our heart that we fear that may be we won’t do the justice it deserves. I don’t know about others but for me, football comes close to that. It is the only thing that makes me laugh, cry, be passionate about, be gregarious and be thankful to for it is something that I hold dearest in my life. 

For so many feelings that is boxed together in one, after all, football is just another sport, but for me it is way more than the players who play the sport on the field. It’s the coaches, the manager, the analytics team behind game strategy, the club, the fans, the owners, the legacy, the legendary stories of comebacks, wins, fails, stories of not giving up, the anthems, the hymns, the songs, if only I can tell you how beautiful the world seems for those 90 minutes and the next 90 which I spend on researching on the game. 

Over the years I have come to love Liverpool FC and I have had the privilege of interviewing the legends of LFC – Robbie Fowler and Samie Hyypia. Was I fangirling during the interview? Absolutely yes. Did I ask objective questions? Yes. Did I take their autograph like a crazy mad fan? ofcourse yes. 

But in all these, there came a footballer at Liverpool FC, much infamous for biting his opponents, fighting with opponents every time his team started to lose or simply falling on the ground to try and get a penalty. Not many loved him but overtime he became the centerpiece of LFC’s forward attack, the striker that Steven Gerrard needed to compliment his skills. There I fell in love with Suarez, Luis Suarez. The Urguyan who came from Ajax. 

Fearless, aggressive, he wore his heart on his sleeves, impeccable with his shots, and ofcourse never gave up until he tried and tried and scored. The kind of focus he had on the game made me love football even more passionately and also bring that focus to my work. I used to have his paper cut picture on my office desk at Mint and everyone would laugh at me, they still do. But then love after all is beyond logic. And those who love sports will know what their favourite sportsperson mean to them. 

Though for me Gerrard is the ultimate dream legend whom I would love to see even if it is from a mile away, but Suarez stands second. So when I realized that Suarez might not be playing longer for FC Barcelona, I decided to break my savings, book a Champions League ticket and return fare from Mumbai to Spain. 

With my sky-blue backpack and this figgity feeling inside me I told the immigration officer at Mumbai International Airport that I am going to watch a Champion’s League Match and he asked,  “Really? Are you going alone?” and with a huge grin on my face, I told him, “Yes, Alone!” And there he sat behind the large glass window smiling at me and stamping my visa and telling me to have fun and be safe!

So finally I left for Madrid and then to Barcelona, a girl from Bombay took off to see one of her favorite footballer play at Camp Nou. Can you believe that feeling?

It was surreal, I never thought I will be there someday and here I was in Barcelona, waiting for metro at Diagonal station (pronounced Deeagonaal) waiting to go to Collblanc, the home of Barca.

Although the match was at 9 pm I couldn’t contain my excitement and after a grueling trek through the day I reached Collblanc at 6 pm. As the metro approached Collblanc metro hordes and hordes of people with Barca scarf and tshirts thronged the exit gate, the air was charged, people were singing, asking for directions, laughing, being crazy and happy to go to the mecca where many a legend has been created and revered. 

There was a spring in my step and as I walked closer and closer to the stadium I couldn’t really control my tears of joy as I ran on top of the stairs the moment I saw my entry gate. And no, I wasn’t alone. People with friends, kids, partners, parents had gathered and queued up to go inside. People with season passes, people like me with ticket print outs, drums playing around, people jumping and singing songs, it was simply the euphoria of football as I had seen on television, sitting million miles away. 

As we all made our way to the stadium, I quickly ran to find my seat and that first moment when you step in to that stadium you know it’s more, much more than what you ever thought. I had bought tickets for the second level, which ideally meant I could see everyone running near the goal post with my naked eye.  Like that moment when Suarez got a penalty and Lionel Messi took the penalty and scored a goal, right in front of us. Funnily enough as the game progressed my attention moved from Suarez to Messi and how he ran every inch of that ground and snatched the ball and went to score. It was a sight to behold. I was even impressed with Philippe Coutinho, whom I have never liked much. And for some strange reasons I didn’t see the Suarez whom I had always seen on TV with his precision attack on the ball. May be it wasn’t his day, may be my expectations were too high, may be something was jarred but that evening was about the team which wiped off Lyon and the wonderful fans who made it one of the most beautiful experience of my life. 

As the nearly full stadium roared after Barcelona’s win, we all queued again and left the doors, while I walked past the exit gate I looked back again, with a smile, promising to be back again, one more time. And then I was walking amongst the thousands of people, finding my way to the metro station as fans animatedly discussed and laughed about the game in Spanish, English, Hindi et all. Sports is not tied to a language, after all. And there we all stood cramped again in a metro train going back to our hostels and homes with smiles everywhere. 

If someone ever asks, did you dare to dream and check your bucket list, my answer will be, aye. As they say, dream a little dream, give a long chase and then it might be yours one day. 

 

 

Paragliding and the art of Flying like an Eagle!

Now, Its been four months that I haven’t blogged, which is a shameful thing for someone who is a writer. But sometimes the journey is so exhilarating that words fall short. Infact life has changed 360 degrees, more on that later.

Coming to the part where I left off, I went to Mcleodganj in October and one of the most important part of my trip was to jump off from the mountain which is popularly called Paragliding.

A lot of places in India offer tandem paragliding, which basically means a professional will take you for a whirl, but there are long courses too but nothing can come close to jumping from Bir Billing Valley.

Its a feeling, its an emotion that one has to feel when they are right up in the mountain. While I was at The Bunker at Upper Dharamkot people who were coming back from Billing had varied stories to narrate. As the season was just about starting, due to rough weather only a few were able to fly and rest were coming back with disappointment and hence I was very clear that I wanted to take the first jump which starts at 7.30 am!

So there I was packing my bag to go to Bir and thanks to Ishan ( he owns The Bunker) who found fellow travellers to Zostel Bir I managed to cut my costs and happily shared a cab to the hostel.

Bir is a quaint town living in its own world with a huge Tibetian settlement and monastery around. After crossing the tea plantations of Palampur we reached Bir after sunset and couldn’t believe our eyes, for none of us had ever seen so many stars in the sky glittering like a milky way. Even though I was freezing I just could not stop staring at the sky while a traditional song was being sung at a far away settlement.

But we had things to do, and the manager at the hostel slotted all our rides and I jumped and said,’I am going first at7.30′

Like an excited child i sat outside waiting for the jeep and boy o boy I couldn’t contain my excitement when I was asked to sit in the back of the open jeep while it speeded in circles climbing up the Billing valley.

The Billing valley paragliding site is often quoted as the second best site in the world and many world championships have been conducted here for the thermals are very good and you can easily fly in the air for long.

When you stand atop the valley and look as far as you can the only feeling that i felt was how miniscule we are in the scheme of things called nature and life. Somehow I wasn’t scared I was raring to run and jump and scream my heart and so I did!

My instructor is an ex-Indian army fellow and he literally took me inside a floating cloud. Now imagine, someone who is scared of turbulence in a flight and who rarely takes flight out of choice is now taking a whirl inside a little passing cloud, like a neighbor who has come to say hello.

We were in the sky for over 20 minutes where me and Harish, my instructor shared our faith, lifestories, how he learnt paragliding, his daughter who wants to go to an english school and so much more.

He also taught me how paragliding is nothing but following an eagle’s flight as the eagle always knows where the winds direction moves. All you have to do is follow the tail, quite simple? Not really but he made it sound so simple and easy and just as i blinked he started air stunts and I screamed my lungs out and landed on the offsite!

For every person who does this ride those 20-25 minutes in the air mean something personal to each one of them. Something to let go, or something they seize in that moment! For me I screamed goodbye to my fear of flying that day, that’s a lot for a day!

Here is the quick takeaway:

Stay: Zostel Bir

Cost: Rs 500 per night (depends which bunkbed)

Pragliding through Zostel Escape: Costs Rs 2000/-

Go-Pro videos-Rs500/- directly goes to the gliding instructor

Upper Dharamkot to Zostel Bir: By cab, Rs 1500/-

Most important- The best alloo prathas at Zostel Bir and yes, say bye to your fears!

The Bunker Hostel -Debunking life in its own way

And I sat there on the cobbled stones near the waterholed bonfire on a cold Monday afternoon, amidst the clouds passing by, mocking my inability to fly with them. I sat there still blankly looking at the mountain and wondering if life could forever this be. If only time could stand still and let me be. 

This is not an exaggeration this is what The Bunker does to you. 

-How did I find The Bunker? 

I have never stayed in a hostel in India, partially due to safety and more so because of cleanliness reasons. But this time I was pretty tight on budget and after listening to a few stories about the new hostels springing up around the country, I decided to take the plunge. 

On a sunny Sunday afternoon, Shailaja introduced me to the instragram influencer Abhinav Chandel who goes by the handle @abhiandnow who recommended The Bunker Hostel at Upper Dharamkot and after reading and staring at the pictures for an hour I decided to book the place through Booking.com. 

Although my bed bunk was booked they didn’t charge any money upfront and I kept calling them to ensure if that means I don’t get a place. The person on the other side calmly said, Pooja, don’t worry we got your bed. We are hiking right now,ceya. 

With this I had an inkling that this isn’t just another hostel and after spending a week with this enterprising and amazing lot I can only say, this has been my best hostelling experience ever. (I have stayed at St Christopher’s Inn–which is an award winning hostel in Paris, just to compare the experience) 

– Are you ready to reach The Bunker?

First things first, if you think this place is meant for the easy hearts it’s not, whether you choose to stay at The Bunker or Zostel at Upper Dharamkot, you will have to pull your luggage for 500 meters to a kilometre from where the cab drops you. Not really a big deal, but I recommend do not carry suitcases and extra luggage. You will repent it. 

I reached the hostel after sunset and met one of the owners – Ishan Byotra. And his friends Nidhi Iyer and Naihad Mohan who help him run the show. I didn’t get the chance to meet the co-owner Ashish.  But I am sure you will find them running the hostel once you reach there. Oh, there are two more important inhabitants- -Rain and Tazzoo. 

-What makes The Bunker my favourite?

Its the people who run the hostel, its the people who stay in the hostel and those who come for lively discussions and stay through the evening for lovely dinners.  The hostel attracts a lot of foreign tourists as compared to a Zostel, mainly because Indian’s are more aware of Zostel as a brand and their infrastructure is usually the same across the country. 

In a way that has helped The Bunker create its own niche. People playing and teaching poyi, Omir, an Israeli guy rapping along a hindi song in Hebrew, to the Swedish mailman Anton who brought me back from a treacherous trek or people playing guitars or lazily listening to music with each other. By the end of the day you would have spoken to everyone who is in the hostel. Instant plans with hostel mates and the zeal with which Nidhi, Ishan and Naihad help everyone, it sets them apart.
I had to go to Bir and Ishan overheard people in a cafe that they are headed to the same destination and got me to travel along with them. Or when I was in too much pain and Nidhi made me peanut butter sandwich even though the kitchen was officially closed. Its these gestures that go a long way in building trust with customers and loyal repeat travellers. 

– What more? 

The place dosen’t feel like a strange new place, its more than a hostel, its a new home with a lot of roommates, who somehow leave their imprints  on each other.  So much so, that I cancelled my other plans and came back to stay three more days with them.  And they were nice enough to adjust me at my same bed! 

– Dent in the pocket? 

I stayed in a mixed dorm called Rivers and paid Rs 450 per night. The room is cosy and has enough space for your luggage.  The washroom is neat and clean and hot water runs 24*7! I think there are cheaper rooms too!

Food is good- totally recommend the ginger honey lemon to drink, the veg Thali and Bunker Fried Chicken. You obviously can’t leave without eating or drinking Ishan’s special hot chocolate or experimental desserts. 

The place is pretty neat and clean and I recommend this hostel to anyone who is seeking to travel alone or with friends. 

-What are you waiting to hear?

We all have fears of travelling alone, but this place makes it easier. So those who asked me if they should travel alone, there can’t be a better place to start it.

Trust me you will leave a part of yourself when you leave promising to come back for its not everytime that you find a place which sings to your soul. 
PS: Ishan didn’t give me a penny’s discount to write this. 

Cheap trip to Himachal Pradesh!

I have been contemplating whether to go home for my holidays or to take my backpack and leave for some me time…Not surprising enough that I have chosen to go for a solotrip for my upcoming birthday week! 

I called my friend and asked her for some recommendations and did some googling and came to a conclusion that I will do a cheap trip and stay in hostels. Due to safety concerns I have never stayed in hostels in India or for that matter in Asia but after reading some reviews and looking at the beautiful hostels I have decided to give it a go. 

Also to make this trip as economical as I can I have decided to take a train from Mumbai to Pathankot and then take a bus/shared taxi to Dharamsala. 

This time around I had made up my mind to stay only in hostels during the trip and I came across one of the instagram influencer Abhinav Chandel who goes by the handle @abhiandnow who had recommended The Bunker Hostel (@thebunkerhostel) at Upper Dharamkot. After going through the pictures and ratings on Tripadvisor I booked the hostel through Booking.com, which I have been using for last four years for my trips to Europe. 

Next up I decided to experience a Zostel hostel and booked my stay with them at Bir Billing Valley. Although I am not sure about paragliding activity during October but I am hoping to take the Barot Valley Trek which is considered an easy one. 

I want to thank Shailaja Sharma and Amritha Pillay for the ideas because personally they have been the flag bearers of all things Himachal! 

More once I embark on the journey later this month! 

DENT IN YOUR POCKET! 

Mumbai to Pathankot (Train) – Rs 2000/-

The Bunker Hostel Dorm-Rs1200/- (3nts)

Zostel Bir – Rs 1500 (3nts) 

*Does not include breakfast/food costs

Iran Sojourn: Part III

I sincerely apologise to my readers and my dear friend who took time out to write about the beautiful journey through Iran. As promised, this is the third and final piece from my friend. Please read on and send in your queries and feedback, we would love to help you if we can 🙂

Here, I want to share some possibly useful tips from my 10-day experience in Iran.

 Iran: Some useful tips for travelers

 Language

I do not know Farsi and I was fine and faced no major hurdle. Nevertheless, I would recommend at least learning the Farsi numerals (they are written in the same way as in Arabic or Urdu), because often menu prices in restaurants or in other places are only written in the local language. It would be better if you can count one to ten in Farsi, especially when you haggle while hailing a cab. It should not be very difficult for Indians as the numbers sound very similar to Hindi. 

This brings us to the issue of managing currency, which can be a little bit difficult at first because of the confusion between ‘rials’ and ‘tomans’. Iranian currency is officially known as ‘Rials’ and currently (in May 2017) one US Dollar can buy more than 32,000 rials. One rial is equal to 10 tomans and most prices in shops are written in tomans rather than rials. However, in actual conversations and haggling, the last there zeroes of the tomans are often omitted. So when a cab driver quotes a fare of five tomans, he most likely means five thousand or ‘panjhazaartomans’.

 Commuting within the country

Although a railway network does exist, you need to book tickets well in advance. In hindsight I am glad I failed to get train tickets as it allowed me greater flexibility. Overnight buses appear to be a popular mode of long-distance travel within the country and the buses and terminals are quite clean and well-maintained. I found buses to be a cheap and comfortable mode of travel. An overnight journey from Isfahan to Shiraz, almost same as Mumbai to Ahmedabad in distance terms, cost me 18,500 tomans or Rs. 370, in a semi-sleeper 3-seats-in-a-row (2+1) bus.

 Airfares also seemed much cheaper than fares in India. I booked a flight from Shiraz to Tehran – equivalent to a Mumbai to Bangalore flight – which cost me only 128,000 tomans or around 2,500 Indian rupees, despite booking just one day in advance and that too in Nowruz season. 

Things to do in major cities

In Tehran, the entire stretch from old Bazaar to Golestan Palace to the National Museum would be a good starting point to acquaint yourself with the history of the country; the entire area is well connected to the Tehran metro network. Also, I would recommend a visit to the Milad Tower, which offers a good panoramic view of Tehran.

 Isfahan is a great heritage city and the entire Naqsh-a-Jehan square and the surrounding area should be part of your itinerary. Also, it is a nice place to buy traditional Iranian delicacies like ‘Gaz’ candy (you can also buy it from Tehran International Airport on your way back home). I would also recommend a visit to the Vank cathedral in Isfahan, which stands in testimony to Iran’s history of religious tolerance. If you are interested in history and would like to see and know more about the Armenian genocide, then Vank cathedral and the accompanying museum would be good investment of time.

 If you plan to visit Shiraz, I am sure that Persepolis, the ancient capital city which was attacked by Alexander, would be in your itinerary. However, bear in mind that the local name for Persepolis is ‘Takht-e-Jamshid’ and that is likely to be the only name by which taxi or bus operators identify that place.

 Finally, you should know that alcohol is banned in Iran (except for maybe some religious minorities). However, there are tea houses and places where you get hookah.

 Although there is little to worry, but please be on your guard

I have already discussed how easily I found help, often more than asked, whenever needed. I did not discern any tendency to fleece tourists. My hotel in Isfahan helped me with my onward bus and airline tickets and I have no reason to believe they tried to make any extra money. On one occasion, I had forgotten my mobile at a restaurant in Isfahan and got it back when I went there after about an hour. Nevertheless, I can recall atleast two instances where I suspect street vendors tried to fleece me. Also, I was never sure if I was paying the correct fare for taxi because there does not seem to be any concept of paying by metre. Thus, while there is no reason to be paranoid, it is better to be on your guard.

Part 2: Random acts of kindness by people made my Iran trip a memorable one

When we come back from our trips, its not just the places we visited that makes our memories special, its the kind deeds of strangers, the people and the city’s culture which makes a trip truly magnificent. And somehow we always remember how strangers went out of their way to help us when we really needed it in a strange new land.

In this second series, my friend narrates the beautiful memories that he brought back home from Iran, not of just places but people who were generous and kind and who went out of their way to make his trip a splendid one.

Here it goes: 

The first thought that crosses ones mind when they hear about travelling to Iran is how safe is it anyway. Right?

Although the apprehensions are quite warranted given its neighbors – Iraq, Afghanistan and Pakistan which are not exactly the most peaceful or ‘stable’ countries in the world. However, what US President Jimmy Carter had to say about Iran in 1977 still holds true: “Iran is an island of stability in one of the most troubled area of the world”.

The amount of frisking and checking in public places in Iran was visibly lesser than in India, perhaps suggesting lower terrorism risk-perception. Especially, security at domestic airports or Tehran metro seemed relatively less stringent compared to India. Of course, security at the Tehran international airport was at par with major airports in India.

Iranian Hospitality:

This brings me to the random instances of kindness that made my trip a memorable one. I was invited by a guy I just met at Tehran airport to his home in north Iran (Gilan province), not very far away from the Caspian Sea. Although not in my itinerary, I kind of made a detour as I did not want to let go of the opportunity. Although you can call it risky, but the greed to see something more than what I had planned for made me bite the dust. Needless to say, I had a great stay,  the family went out of its way to make me feel at home and the elder sister of the extended family even took a day off from her bank job and drove us to the nearby attractions of Lahijan. The traditional food and the ride to the mountain area is still afresh in my memory.

Iran certainly is not like any dystopian Middle-Eastern patriarchy where women are barred to venture out of homes without male companions or not allowed to drive or work.  Also, interaction between members of opposite gender does not seem to be a taboo, as I can attest from my own experience. One of the many female students who worked as staff (or volunteers) in Isfahan’s tourist attractions was kind enough to take interest in my expedition and actually showed me around the city in evening after completing her shift. Isfahan is a great heritage city and there is a saying in Farsi: ‘Isfahan, nesf-e- jehan’ meaning that Isfahan is half the world.

Besides being very generous to tourists, people are generally very polite and extremely well-mannered. Just a small tip to travellers from India; when you hail a cab, sit in the front seat. That is what seemed to be the norm there.

It was common sight to find posters commemorating heroes (often martyrs) of the eight year-long Iran-Iraq war (1980-88) at any round about. The war, also referred to as the ‘Arab-Iran war’ by Iranians, started when Saddam Hussein attacked Iran just a few months after Iran’s 1979 revolution, trying to take advantage of the post-revolution turbulence in the country.

Reminders to the revolution and the eight-year war are a common sight, especially in the capital city Tehran,often in the form of large murals over buildings. The huge cemetery of the war martyrs, Behesht-e-Zahra or ‘Zahra’s Paradise’ in south Tehran, was quite busy when I visited on a Thursday afternoon in 2014, some twenty six years after the war. Apparently, it is tradition for families to picnic at the gravesite and also to distribute food/sweets/candy to other people/strangers nearby. The cemetery was dotted with countless photos / posters of young soldiers, presumably all martyrs. The cemetery gave me the vibe that the revolutionary fervour is still quite alive. Of course, drawing too much inference can be risky because of three reasons – one, a war memorial will always display greater zeal or fervour than the average population; secondly, the period I visited was just before Nowruz holiday and might have distorted the number of visitors and lastly, other people besides martyrs of the war are also buried there.

How safe is it for women?

Owing to my limited experience in Iran as a solo male traveller, I am not in a good position to comment on how safe Iran would be for a woman traveller and you are advised to check other online resources on this subject. It is indeed true that there is a mandatory dress code for women in public, i.e. the hijab, with covering of hair (often by a scarf) being an essential part. The most common attire for women, as I observed, was jeans plus coat or jacket plus scarf.

This is the second part on my 2014 trip to Iran. The first part had dealt with planning the trip. The next and final part will dwell on some practical advice for travellers. However, due to my work schedule for the coming week, I would be able to post about it only on the next Sunday, i.e. 14^th May 2017.

 

The Persian Story: Solo Trip to Iran

Tehran

Persepolis

Iran, which boasts of tales of an era gone by, of modernity yet the uprising.  My friend took a journey which very few people can even imagine on their travel list.  We both have decided to not name him as the decision to post anonymously stems solely from the desire to avoid possible complications that might rise if he ever plans to visit USA.

Let him take you on his solo trip to Iran, an unchartered teritory, an unknown terrain for many of us.

Visiting Iran and why!

History, heritage, architectural marvels are good enough reasons to visit Iran. Additionally, if you want to impress your friends and crushes by undertaking a seemingly perilous journey without actually ever putting yourself in any danger, then Iran is the place to be. Moreover, you get to examine for yourself the western narrative of Iran being some sort of ‘evil mullahcracy’ which is apparently part of some evil axis.  Be rest assured, Iran is a very safe country to visit; the ‘Global Terrorism Index’ ranks Iran as the 47^thmost affected country from terrorism, much below India (8^th), USA (36^th), UK (34^th) and neighbours Iraq (1^st) and Afghanistan (2^nd). 

When to visit?

I visited Iran in March 2014 (solo male tourist), for ten days from 11^th March to 21^st March. These dates are important. March 21^st generally marks the beginning of the one-week ‘Nowruz’ celebrations in Iran. Nowruz, literally ‘New Year’, is apparently the most important holiday in Iran, when families generally take a one-week break to travel, meet relatives and exchange gifts. For one week post 21^st March, the entire country is in holiday and tourist places are very crowded; therefore it is generally advised to avoid visiting Iran during that particular week. However, my pre-trip research showed that the week immediately before Nowruz was a good time to visit (and I was not disappointed subsequently). Of course, you could choose an entirely different time to visit Iran; some of my newly made friends in Iran advised visiting the northern parts of Iran, which are generally mountainous and colder, in summer.

Planning the trip – hotel bookings and foreign exchange

I had planned to visit the three big cities of Tehran (the capital city), Isfahan and Shiraz. The famous ruins of Persepolis could be accessed through Shiraz. I advise you to book hotels before the trip, although searching for accommodation once you get there should not be an insurmountable problem. In case you land up in an Iranian city without any hotel booking, ask for ‘Musafir-koneh’, i.e. travellers’ inns if you want to save some money. I myself had stayed at such an inn for a night in Shiraz and realized that families (including women and children) also often use such inns. Otherwise, the slightly more expensive hotels are always an option. 

Regarding booking hotels before the trip, you need to do it over email. Remember, due to US and European sanctions on Iran’s banking system, hotels will not be able to accept payments by credit cards or wire transfers. So, in effect, booking a hotel in Iran essentially means exchanging emails and promising to stay at the hotel in return for extracting a promise that the hotel will host you. In 2014, I managed to book a hotel room in central Tehran, near Hassan Abad metro station for 27 US Dollars per night. 

This brings us to the question of foreign exchange. First of all, remember that international credit cards (whether Visa or Mastercard or Amex) will not work in Iran, due to the sanctions. Therefore, you need to carry cash to Iran, preferably partly in Dollars and partly in Euros. Do not worry about Reserve Bank of India’s restrictions over carrying foreign currency abroad, there is an exception for Iran (and some other countries). [http://www.quickforex.in/images/pdf/rbi-rule.pdf]

 My experience in 2014 suggests that most hotels, including the budget ones, accept US Dollars. However, that could be changing now due to Iran’s stated political decision to gradually ditch the Dollar. Nevertheless, converting foreign currency to Iranian Rials should not be a problem. I converted the first batch of my forex at the Tehran international airport, more formally known as IKA (Imam Khomeini Airport). For my solo trip for ten days, I took with myself foreign exchange equivalent to eighty-five thousand Rupees. It is better to carry some buffer because once you are in Iran it would be difficult to access your money back home.

 Flight

As per my understanding, flights to and from Iran in March tend to be more expensive due to Nowruz. I could manage a Mumbai-Tehran return ticket at around Rs. 28,000, booked at the Iran Air office in South Mumbai. If you are planning to fly from Delhi to Tehran, then I guess Iran-based ‘Mahan Air’ is an option. You might not be able to view Iran Air or Mahan Air flights in popular travel websites (like Makemytrip), again due to sanctions! It is advisable to directly call the airlines for enquiries. Besides, there are also other carriers, but they will most likely entail a stop-over. Remember, Tehran has two airports – IKA and Mehrabad; most international flights operate out of IKA.

Visa

I availed the visa on arrival facility at the Tehran airport. However, that was in 2014 and rules have subsequently changed; Indian passport holders are no longer eligible for visa on arrival. I regret I cannot provide much useful information on this crucial aspect of travel due to lack of experience with the new rules.

 

This is the first of a three part series on travel to Iran. The subsequent parts will focus on my experiences in Iran.

Things to do around Bali!

 

Although Bali is the congregation of all things old and new and has the most mesmerizing sunsets, it is an overcrowded city with tourists all over and evenings are all about traffic jams. But all said, you cant take the charm away from the streets of this city. For someone who loves solitude and beaches, I had kept only 2.5 days traveling around Ubud and Bali which I reckon isn’t fair. It deserves more.

But if you are someone who is looking to dive and visit islands and stare at the most magnificent sunsets, then you have to leave this hustle bustle city sooner than you want to.

Lunch by the view of Mount Batur

Tirta Empul Temple

Sunset by Tanha Lot

Bali Marine Safari Park-African Safari

Giraffes at Bali Marine Safari Park

Bali Marine Safari Tour

The Indian Tiger Park

Canyon of Sukawati

Sukawati

Rice fields by Sukawati

Jimbaran Beach

Sunset by Jimbaran Beach

Sunset by Jimbaran Beach

Jimbaran Beach

Seafood by Jimbaran beach

Jimbaran beach

 

Cost:

I had hired a car cum tourist driver who charged me Rs 3500 per day for 10 hours, there are people who can take you around for far cheaper. The ideal thing to do in Bali is to negotiate shamelessly.  I totally recommend my tour guide Budi, he took me to every possible place he could however off route they may be.

Five things I totally recommend:

-Bali Marine Safari Park and The Agung Bali Show

Have you ever been in a closed theater and witnessed a theatrical live performance with Parakeets, six elephants, tiger and some beautiful art work on a stage at the same time? If yes, then I envy you. If not, then please remember this is the most magical performance I have ever seen in my life and I totally recommend it. It’s a beautiful story with live music. The performance was enthralling.

It is part of the Marine Safari ticket and you should not miss it at all. The safari is nice but this takes the cake.  And be rest assured you will see every animal you have seen in your animal book but the best is the Tiger show and African Safari.

The entire tour takes up nearly four hours of your day.

Cost: There are three types of entry ticket , I opted for the one that costs Rs 4500/- per pax totally worth it.

-Canyon of Sukawati

Beji Guwang Hidden canyon is located in the village of Sukawati which is little far from Denpasar city but an experience you shouldn’t miss. I was looking for offbeat things to do in Bali and came across this canyon. It’s a rocky canyon with fountain hidden underneath the village. I didn’t see any Indian tourist around this place; in fact I was the only one hiking around the canyon that day. It is famous with thrill junkies and in case you are someone looking for safety ropes or easy climbs then this place isn’t for you. It’s all about climbing around slippery rocks and jumping into water and witnessing nature’s beauty. You must take a local tour guide else it can be a risky affair. My local tour guide was very nice and he helped carry most of my stuff (Do not travel with any baggage). It’s a two hour trail and it pushes you to go further than you can imagine you can ever do. There was this moment when I decided to give up but he motivated me to finish the trail and I am grateful to him. I sincerely didn’t know I could finish that trail and climb a slippery mountain to come back to my car. May be you will learn something new about yourself too, isn’t that’s why we travel?

 

–Sunset dinner by Jimbaran

As waves come crawling on your feet and array of colours fill the sky, you can’t help but feel so calm and peaceful just to be there. After a long day’s travel it’s the perfect way to wind up your Bali tour as you eat the best sea food and stare at the ocean and flights taking off next to you. It’s the bliss part of travelling and makes you ponder over things you want to do.

-Temple Hopping

My personal favorite is Temple of Saraswati (Goddess of Knowledge) which is located in Ubud. Although one can easily miss the entrance, this temple is centuries old and has a beautiful entrance. With pond on both sides and lotuses around it, it truly signifies what the Goddess stands for.

Tirta Empul Temple is also one of the most revered ones and you should carry your own sarong to take a dip in the holy water. It’s an experience you will cherish, quite unlike Indian temples, hence totally recommend it.

-Uluwatu and Tanha Lot

These are ideal spots to witness sunsets and hordes of tourists gather around in the evening, so I suggest try and reach before the roads jam up. Stay back after the sunset and listen to the waves crashing on the shore and see the bats fly home.  Also do not give a miss to Suluban beach underneath Uluwatu and you can find people trying to surf.

 

Apart from these there are places which one should visit if time permits:

Cycling around Tegallang Rice fields

Take a Volkswagon or heritage car and tour around (available on Viator)

The abandoned Planes in South Kuta

Devdan Show

Lunch by Mount Batur

 

• None of the pictures have been edited to represent how truly beautiful the place is. Would love your feedback and let me know if I missed something great, which I should do in my next trip!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Solo Travel in Bali

 

I have been solo traveling for last seven years and each time I have an interesting story to narrate. But as a solo backpacker, I have always avoided travelling in Asia, but this time around I decided to visit Indonesia.  Honestly, I wasn’t expecting much but I came back with such beautiful stories and memories. And I totally recommend you to pick your bags and travel alone and cheer up your soul.

The first thing that comes to mind when one says Indonesia is Bali. But trust me there is more to Indonesia than Bali and Ubud. Infact, beaches in Bali like Kuta, Seminyak etc seem like upmarket Goa, the good thing is as a solo traveler it makes you feel at home before you set out to see the unseen. I spent the best part of my holiday roaming around an island called Gili Trawangan (more on this in next post).

For Indian travelers, Bali is really hop skip and jump away (Mine was a 15 hour journey). I took a Malaysian Airline flight and reached Bali via Kuala Lumpur. The flights were delayed in all legs of my trip so maybe you can see if you want to choose any other airline. The official name of Bali Airport is Ngurah Rai International Airport in Denpasar, and it can easily be passed off as a domestic terminal in any Indian airport. It’s small, hence convenient and easy to get by. So if you are a solo traveler don’t be intimidated, things are easily under control.  For Indians, visa is exempted, so basically you don’t have to pay a penny to enter the land of history, culture and magnificent sunsets.

Currency:

The Indonesian Rupiah is quite intimidating for the first two days, as you haven’t really dealt with millions before in your life. Inflation hasn’t really helped the economy. For eg- a packet of bread costs  17,000 Ind rupiyah. So the best part is to know your currency and you should bargain hard for a better rate. In case someone offers you a better deal than anywhere else then dump it, always ask for a receipt. There are currency exchanges shops in every nook and corner so try and be careful. I exchanged currency in batches as I ended up spending way more when I had pile of cash.

Hotels:   

Now, picking a hotel is the first part of the trip, here is what I did and what I could have done better.  I booked all my hotels through Expedia and when compared to other sites, I did get a better deal.

As a backpacker I usually live in hostels, but when it comes to travelling in Asia, especially back home I prefer hotels. Although the mindset is changing but for a first timer I decided to try the safe bet. I booked Sun Boutique Hotel managed by BENCOOLEN at Sunset Road in Kuta, it was quite cheap and the facilities were very good. My room was next to the pool and there wasn’t any outside noise and the staff is very nice and updated me on every offer they had during my stay.

Cost: Rs 1975/- per night per room (2pax)

But I would recommend that if you are travelling budget in Bali, you should opt for a hostel or a hotel near the beach road. Don’t try and stay too far from the beach, else you will end up wasting money on cab and time as traffic is a huge problem in the island. It helps to leave early when in Bali. The roads are too small and taxis are an expensive affair.

I also stayed at Sheraton Bali Kuta Resort during the last leg of my stay as I wanted to pamper myself. If you are looking for luxury this hotel surely ensures one. The hotel has a gate which opens up to the beach and it is in the midst of all the action Bali has to offer. Totally recommend their Spa services too.

Cost: Rs10,000/- per night per room (2 pax)

Other hotel that I liked include Hard Rock Hotel on Kuta Beach Road. One can try hotels in Legian Street or Seminyak. Infact Seminyak has some of the best hotel properties for luxe travelers.

Food and Shopping:

While walking on the beach road one can’t help but see series of shops hanging dreamcatchers in every sizes and trust me you will end up buying one. One thing in Bali that one shouldn’t forget is to bargain. I was totally ripped off in the first two shops and then I rehashed my bargaining skills. Always pay half of what they ask for and always be confident. And go to as many stores as you can before you start buying.

Indonesian food can be quite spicy, but the plethora of sea food it offers warrants mention. I had a lovely sunset dinner at Ganesha Café at Jimbaran Beach. The prawns were beautifully cooked and served with rice and sea plant.

Travel Tale in next post: Canyon of Sukawati, Bali Marine Safari, Saraswati Temple, Goldsmith shop, Tanha Lot and more.